Important changes are afoot in the fish industry. Recently we reported on the backlash against the unethical and unsustainable farming of bluefin tuna, which has brought the voices of celebrities, artists, ministers and chefs to the forefront in the fight against the current devastating overfishing of the seas.
The World Wildlife Fund for Nature estimates that the breeding stock of the endangered bluefin tuna in the Mediterranean will be wiped out by 2012 if fisheries such as Mitsubishi continue to plunder its waters.
Now, large caterers and restauranteurs are banning certain types of fish from their menus. Compass Caterer, which supplies 6,500 venues in the UK and Ireland has increased its list of banned fish from 13 to 69 species. The “Fish to Avoid” list will be rolled out to all their sites which include Bristol Zoo Gardens, Chelsea Football Club and Procter & Gamble UK/Ireland.
At the Michelin-starred Manoir Aux Quat'Saisons the chef-owner Raymond Blanc has also taken the initiative to only source sustainably-caught fish which are approved by the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC). The menus at the Manoir feature the MSC logo, letting customers know that their fish dishes come entirely guilt-free. Blanc said: "By supporting MSC, I am ensuring that, as a chef, I am helping to ensure that fish stocks will be replenished for generations to come."
The Nobu restaurant chain has received vocal criticism from well-known names for its insistence on including bluefin tuna on its menu. At its London restaurants only, a note accompanies the menu advising customers to change their order, but the owners refuse to remove the fish from its menu, claiming that there is still “enormous” demand for the delicacy at its restaurants worldwide.
Minister Protests
The latest high-profile protester to boycott Nobu London is the British Fisheries Minister Huw Irranca Davies. He said it was his duty to protect the fish, and his decision is symbolic of this:
"There is regulated trade in this species but, while I have a responsibility as a minister in trying to protect this species for years to come, similarly suppliers and restaurateurs have their individual responsibility as well.
[Nobu] cannot simply abdicate responsibility when faced with the evidence. I wouldn't be eating in a restaurant that serves bluefin tuna, but they have to make their own decision. There are other fish they could make delicious meals out of. They have a part to play. There is also a part for consumers to play to put pressure on."
France and Britain are backing a proposal made by the principality of Monaco to ban the sale of bluefin tuna under Appendix I of the Convention on the International Trade in Endangered Species.