In the world of haute-cuisine, it is a grand achievement for a chef to receive one or two Michelin Stars, and the absolute epitome of culinary excellence to achieve three. This week, however top chef Marco Pierre White launched an attack on the Guide claiming that it is "outdated" and has "varying standards" from country to country. He said, "I've dined in Michelin-starred places in New York and I'm confused. There are at least fifty restaurants in England as good as the two-star restaurants over there, rather than the paltry ten that currently hold that number."

The first little red book appeared in 1900 and was launched by Andre Michelin with an aim to advise motorists in France (who drove cars using his tyres) of the best places to stop and eat en route. Today the Michelin Guide is a world-renowned authority on culinary excellence, with chefs toiling long and hard to achieve the coveted stars that will prove their talent to the world. However, critics claim that nowadays diners are no longer looking for the gourmet extravaganza that comes with three Michelin stars, but rather a more rustic meal, as the re-introduction of all things organic and home-grown has made "hearty" the more fashionable and favoured choice.

Yves Camdeborde is the owner of the Parisian bistro Le Comptoir. He states his view on the matter: "What we represent is popular culture, not cuisine de snob. But despite our high standards and 12-month waiting list, we're of no interest to Michelin. It's an informal bistro specialising in great regional cooking and yet again it scarcely rates a flicker on Michelin's scale. Who is the winner? One thing's for sure: it's not Michelin's readers."

Michelin has also come under fire for trying to impose their standards on other cultures. Top Japanese restaurants declined to appear in the first Tokyo guide that was published in November 2007 due to the fact that many believed it hypocritical of the French to try and establish a standard in an environment they couldn't possibly understand. Toshiya Kadowaki owns the restaurant Azabu Kadowaki in Tokyo which can only only seat 21, he declined to appear in the Guide as didn't wish to attract tourists to his restaurant. His view of the Guide is that it is culturally limited. "Imagine if I went to Paris and started pronouncing upon the food served in French restaurants. The French either wouldn't take me seriously or they wouldn't be very happy. Well I don't think Michelin should do the same here in Japan. Who are they to judge my food and decide if I am worthy of one, two or three stars — or no stars at all?" It might be an idea to keep in mind, however, that Michelin doesn't just employ the French to assess restaurants across the globe...

Even though the Guide may not reflect our current modes and tastes, Michelin has been a benchmark of excellent cooking for years and its standards appear rigorous and unbending. Perhaps though this is the time for them to start listening more to their readers and to take stock of their assessment methods?