Thursday, June 19, 2008
Paul Haeberlin at the Auberge
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Paul Haeberlin, the owner and former head chef of the Auberge de l'Ill in Alsace, France, died earlier this month at the age of 84. Many within the restaurant industry flocked to offer condolences and heart-felt sentiments to the family of this culinary heavyweight, who inspired and tutored many of the world's greatest chefs. Throughout his later years, Haeberlin showed a dedication to his restaurant by continuing to visit the kitchens and serving up food for his staff members on a daily basis.

Haerberlin was an innovative and well-respected chef, having achieved three Michelin stars in 1967 and retaining them to this day, meaning the Auberge has consistently been one of the France's best restaurants for over 40 years. This run has only been surpassed by one chef, Paul Bocuse whose eponymous restaurant is situated in Lyon.

Humble beginnings
The Auberge de l'Ill started off life as L'Arbre Vert, a country inn opened by Haeberlin's grandparents in 1878 and it was in the kitchens here that Paul spent many an hour during his youth learning the trade that was to be prove so rewarding. During the second world war Paul was called up to serve the French army and unfortunately L'Arbre Vert was destroyed in a bombing raid. On returning home, Haeberlin resolved to complete a new mission – reconstructing a top-class family establishment and, most importantly, putting it firmly on the culinary map.

Signature dishes
Some of Haeberlin's signature dishes of the early days are still served up masterfully today by his son Marc, who took over the running of the kitchen in the last decade. Mousseline de grenouilles, or frog mousse, can be found as well as the famous saumon soufflé – a salmon fillet served beneath a layer of fluffy egg whites flavoured with pike and nutmeg, served with a cream and Reisling sauce.

High regard
Armand Sablon, the winner of the 2007 Roux Scholarship (awarded by Michel Roux of Le Gavroche to up-and-coming chefs) completed work experience at the Auberge during Haeberlin's last months and said: "Paul was very ill when I worked at Auberge de l'Ill but he came into the kitchen everyday to greet the staff. Even though his son Marc was heading the kitchen, everyone still called him chef."

Michel Roux of Le Gavroche held Paul Haeberlin in high regard, having been contemporaries for over 20 years. He believes that the Alsacien chef was a culinary icon: "It's definitely a page turn, it's a sad page turn, but I'm so lucky to have been able to have discovered the man, to have admired him, and to have adhered to his principles."